How To Add Wood Frame To Canvas

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Hey all! Mandi here. Custom framing is so corking for that oddly-sized slice of artwork or a deep canvas, but man, oh human, is it e'er expensive! I take a few canvases around my house that I've been wanting to take framed, but rather than saving up for a custom task, I thought I'd just take an afternoon to frame them myself!

I designed three dissimilar styles of sheet frames with three different mounting techniques, and they're all super simple to build. All yous need are various pieces of wood and the tools shown below, and guess what? None of them are power tools!

Then if you're a footling leery of wielding a power drill, router, or chop saw, don't worry! You don't need 'em. This low-fuss method volition get the task done.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Supplies:
–various pieces of wood
–woods glue
–finishing nails or wire brads (size depends on depth of wood)
-pigment or wood stain
–sandpaper

Tools:
-miter box saw (tin be purchased here)
–band clamp
–various clamps
–hammer
–tape measure out
-pencil
-pigment brush or rags

To begin, you'll need to determine which fashion of mount you want for your frame and how thick and detailed the frame will exist. For a wider, chunkier frame, you'll demand spacer wood for between the canvass stretcher and the edge of your frame.

You can bring your art with y'all to the lumber yard (or just dimensions if y'all're shy about toting around your art) and try stacking together different pieces of woods, square dowels, and molding to become the wait you want.

Cheque out my frame profiles below to become ideas for your own frame, and if you want more than particular in yours, don't be shy about adding molding too!

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Mounting Techniques

A recessed mount is a traditional framing technique where the art sits behind the frame and the very edge of the art is covered by the lip of the frame.

A float mount, the most difficult to build, is sometimes used in canvas framing to give even more dimension to the piece by creating a decorative gap between the canvas'south edge and the frame's edge.

Something that you might meet more ofttimes on larger pieces of canvas art is the flush mount, where the frame is simply fastened to the border of the canvas stretcher, with no lip on the front or back.

Affluent Mount Frame

The flush mount frame I designed is mounted relatively affluent with the surface of the canvass and is nailed directly to the edge of the canvas stretcher, without assembling the frame first. Information technology's the easiest frame to make, in my opinion, and I think information technology looks squeamish with larger pieces of artwork.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools!

Step One: To begin, I purchased two 8′ long pieces of cedar 1x2s, lightly sanded them, and and so stained them with my own gray mix of these three stains pictured above: Rustoleum Driftwood, Rustoleum Willow, and Minwax Gilded Oak.

Step Two: Rather than measuring the edge of my frame and transferring those measurements to the lumber, I just laid my i×2 confronting the frame and marked the length of the canvas straight onto the lumber.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Step Three: I cutting each of my pieces of lumber a bit longer than I needed, in case I made a mistake and cut them as well short.

To cutting the pieces, use a miter box saw which clamps the lumber into identify and has guides that ensure yous are cutting to the exact 45-degree angle that you need. It's pretty handy, though it does have more elbow grease than an electric miter saw.

Later on making the cut, you may want to lightly sand downwards the corners if you have whatever splintering.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Pace Iv: Using a band clamp* or a ratchet strap, practise a dry fit of the frame to make certain it fits. If any pieces are too long, cut them down appropriately. When the pieces are cut to the correct length and the dry fit shows a nice fit, loosen the band clamp effectually the loose pieces of the frame and dab paint into the corners where the pieces meet.

Utilize your finger to spread the mucilage effectually a bit before clamping again. Some glue will ooze out when you clamp the frame together, and so exist certain to take a rag handy to wipe abroad any glue immediately.

Stride Five: Use finishing nails or wire brads to adhere the frame to the sail stretcher, making sure to also drive nails through the mitered joints in the corner, giving the wood glue some extra strength.

Wood glue isn't very strong when applied to end grains of woods, and then the nails are a necessary step unless you use a stronger adhesive like Gorilla Glue.

*When using a ring clamp on soft forest, be sure to utilize a slice of scrap woods every bit a buffer between the clamp and the forest then the clamp doesn't leave an imprint on the wood. Non sure how to utilise a band clamp? This YouTube video is really helpful!

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Recessed Mount Frame

The traditional recessed mountain frame utilizes a rabbet, or inset, for the art to sit nestled in behind the frame. It hides a minor edge of the art, which works out well if the edges of your canvas aren't finished.

This frame is assembled prior to attaching the artwork, as opposed to the flush mount frame which is built direct onto the canvas stretcher.

The materials you lot need to build this particular frame are as follows:

-outside border slice: 1/2×three″ lumber
-middle slice: ane/2×2″ lumber
-inside edge piece: ane/2″ lumber
-top edge piece: three/8×two″ lumber

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! I started with stained wood, because information technology was my goal to have two tones of stain in my finished frame and decided information technology would exist all-time to stain first. The stain didn't absorb very well on the pine I used, though, so it might not take mattered. You tin can stain your frame before or later assembling it.

Step I: Glue together the 1/2×iii″ outside piece with the eye and inside border piece as listed in the supplies above and shown in the above right prototype. You'll demand to use clamps to concur together the wood as the glue dries. Be sure to wipe away any seeping mucilage with a damp textile earlier it dries.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Step Two: After the edge and bottom pieces have dried, attach the meridian slice, which should exist a bit wider than the wood stacked below it, in order to create a lip which volition overlap your art. Spread the glue with your fingers to limit mucilage seepage. And so clamp together and allow the glue to cure.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Footstep Three: Mensurate the size of your artwork and add together about ane/8″ buffer space/fault space.

Step Four: Cut your lengths of wood with the miter box saw co-ordinate to the measurements from step iii. I like to err on the side of longer than necessary, because you can always cut off more than yous need! Lay the parallel boards against each other to make sure they are the same length.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Step Five: Arrange a dry fit with the ring clamp and your canvas. Brand sure everything fits together relatively snugly. If the canvass is also loose in at that place, you lot may need to shave a scrap off the lengths of the frame pieces.

After the fit is simply right, spread some forest glue with your finger onto the edges of the frame pieces and fit together the joints with the band clamp, wiping away whatever excess glue before information technology dries.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Step Half-dozen: While the frame is clamped and the glue is drying, drive finishing nails into the joints of the frame to give the piece more stability. I chose to merely nail on ii parallel frame pieces instead of onto each side.

Flip the frame over and attach the canvas from the back by driving longer nails through the canvas stretchers and into the frame.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Float Mountain Frame

I personally think float mountain frames await the most professional, but maybe that's because information technology was the nigh finicky of my frames to make, and then I was the most proud of this one! Float mounts go out a space between the edge of the canvas and the sides of the frame.

They provide dimensionality to the framed piece and are a great way to evidence off gallery wrapped edges of canvass art. I personally thought this float mount frame would be dandy to give a more substantial experience to a thin, less expensive canvas slice.

For my float frame, I used the following woods:

-1/2×two″ lumber painted white
-i/2″ square dowel stained nighttime (though I suggest using a 1/ii×1″ piece of lumber instead)

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! I chose to start with already-painted side pieces to save me the trouble of trimming in with paint and stain with an assembler frame. I chose a bright white for the outside of the frame and a night stain to emphasize the float infinite betwixt the canvass and the frame.

Step 1: Mucilage the bottom piece of the frame to the side piece and clamp into place. Make sure you wipe away the backlog glue before it dries! I used a ane/two″ square dowel for this, but it was exceptionally difficult to later attach the canvas to such a narrow infinite, then if I were to get back in time, I would select a 1/2×i″ piece of lumber instead.

Follow Steps iii-5 of the recessed mount frame in a higher place, but instead of adding 1/8″ to the dimension of the artwork for your frame, add together about 1/4″ to create the bladder space in the frame.

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! Step Six: Instead of nailing the frame together, you'll secure information technology by nailing it to the canvas stretcher from behind. This is the tricky part! You will need to lay your artwork into the frame, making sure the gaps are fifty-fifty all around information technology. I had a difficult time getting the gaps to stay even equally I was clamping information technology into place.

Once it'due south clamped into identify properly, flip over the frame and bulldoze nails through the dorsum piece of the frame and into the canvass stretcher.

Brand sure yous don't miss the stretcher and bulldoze your nails into the bladder space instead! I had to bulldoze my nails in at an bending because my ane/2″ square dowel left me hardly whatsoever infinite.

Information technology was a footling difficult attaching the sheet to that piddling dowel in my float frame, but I love the results! Such a handsome frame ready for display!

Three custom-built frames you can make without any power tools! I'm actually pleased with the results of my custom framing jobs and volition definitely exist DIY framing more in the future! Next I might effort something a piddling more ornate by combining molding styles.

These kits are really handy when trying to hang pictures and they make some really absurd gadgets like this to aid you hang things more easily (here's a good budget option and I like this one likewise!).

Call up of the possibilities and yous can see more photograph and frame DIYs hither! –Mandi

P.S. Check out more domicile decor on our wishlist and shopping pages and don't forget to shop our print shop for more unique photos!

DIY Custom Framing - No Power Tools Required!

Supplies:
various pieces of wood
wood gum
finishing nails or wire brads size depends on depth of wood
pigment or woods stain
sandpaper
Tools:
miter box saw
band clamp
various clamps
hammer
tape measure
pencil
paint brush or rags

Flush Mount Frame

To begin, you'll need to decide which way of mount yous want for your frame and how thick and detailed the frame will exist. For a wider, chunkier frame, yous'll need spacer woods for between the canvas stretcher and the edge of your frame. You can bring your art with you to the lumber yard (or only dimensions if you lot're shy about toting around your fine art) and try stacking together different pieces of wood, square dowels, and molding to get the look yous desire. Check out my frame profiles below to get ideas for your own frame, and if you want more particular in yours, don't be shy nigh adding molding too!
To begin, I purchased two viii′ long pieces of cedar 1x2s, lightly sanded them, and so stained them with my own gray mix of these three stains pictured above: Rustoleum Driftwood, Rustoleum Willow, and Minwax Golden Oak.
Rather than measuring the edge of my frame and transferring those measurements to the lumber, I just laid my 1×2 against the frame and marked the length of the sail directly onto the lumber.
I cut each of my pieces of lumber a flake longer than I needed, in case I made a mistake and cut them as well short. To cut the pieces, I used this miter box saw which clamps the lumber into identify and has guides that ensure you lot are cut to the exact 45-degree bending that you lot need. It's pretty handy, though it does take more elbow grease than an electric miter saw.
Using a band clench or a ratchet strap, do a dry out fit of the frame to make sure information technology fits. If any pieces are besides long, cut them downward appropriately. When the pieces are cut to the correct length and the dry fit shows a nice fit, loosen the ring clamp effectually the loose pieces of the frame and dab paint into the corners where the pieces meet. Use your finger to spread the glue effectually a chip before clamping once more. Some glue will ooze out when you lot clench the frame together, and then exist sure to have a rag handy to wipe away any glue immediately.
Use finishing nails or wire brads to attach the frame to the canvas stretcher, making certain to too bulldoze nails through the mitered joints in the corner, giving the forest glue some extra strength. Wood glue isn't very strong when practical to terminate grains of forest, so the nails are a necessary step unless you use a stronger adhesive like Gorilla Glue.

Recessed Mount Frame

Needed: exterior border piece: i/2×three″ lumber-heart piece: ane/ii×2″ lumber-inside edge slice: 1/2″ lumber-tiptop border piece: three/8×ii″ lumber
Glue together the 1/two×3″ exterior piece with the center and inside edge piece as listed in the supplies in a higher place and shown in the above right prototype. You'll need to utilise clamps to hold together the woods as the glue dries. Be sure to wipe away any seeping glue with a damp cloth before it dries.
After the edge and lesser pieces take dried, attach the top slice, which should be a chip wider than the forest stacked beneath it, in order to create a lip which volition overlap your fine art. Spread the mucilage with your fingers to limit mucilage seepage. Then clamp together and allow the glue to cure.
Measure out the size of your artwork and add nearly 1/eight″ buffer space/error space.
Cut your lengths of wood with the miter box saw according to the measurements from step three. I like to err on the side of longer than necessary, because you can always cut off more you lot need! Lay the parallel boards against each other to make certain they are the same length.
Suit a dry fit with the band clamp and your canvass. Make sure everything fits together relatively snugly. If the canvas is too loose in there, you may need to shave a chip off the lengths of the frame pieces.
After the fit is just right, spread some forest gum with your finger onto the edges of the frame pieces and fit together the joints with the band clamp, wiping abroad whatever excess glue before it dries.
While the frame is clamped and the mucilage is drying, drive finishing nails into the joints of the frame to requite the piece more stability. I chose to only smash on two parallel frame pieces instead of onto each side.
Flip the frame over and attach the sail from the back by driving longer nails through the canvas stretchers and into the frame.

Float Mount Frame

Needed: one/2×two″ lumber painted white, one/two″ square dowel stained dark (though I suggest using a 1/2×1″ piece of lumber instead)
Gum the lesser piece of the frame to the side slice and clench into place. Make certain you lot wipe away the excess glue before it dries! I used a one/ii″ square dowel for this, but it was exceptionally difficult to later adhere the canvas to such a narrow space, so if I were to get dorsum in time, I would select a one/two×1″ piece of lumber instead.
Follow Steps iii-5 of the recessed mountain frame above, just instead of calculation 1/8″ to the dimension of the artwork for your frame, add most 1/four″ to create the float infinite in the frame.
Instead of nailing the frame together, yous'll secure it by nailing it to the sail stretcher from behind. This is the tricky part! You will need to lay your artwork into the frame, making certain the gaps are even all effectually it. I had a difficult time getting the gaps to stay fifty-fifty as I was clamping information technology into place. In one case it's clamped into place properly, flip over the frame and drive nails through the back piece of the frame and into the sheet stretcher. Brand sure you lot don't miss the stretcher and bulldoze your nails into the bladder space instead! I had to drive my nails in at an bending because my 1/ii″ square dowel left me hardly any space.
It was a lilliputian difficult attaching the canvass to that little dowel in my float frame, simply I beloved the results! Such a handsome frame set up for brandish!